Friday, August 6, 2010

My Pilgrimage to Mecca on Year 2000 or “HAJJ 1420H” (Part 3 of 3 Parts)

“HAJJ 1420H”
or
“PILGRIMAGE to MECCA 2000”
(Part 3 of 3 Parts)

 
6th of Zul-Hajj / March 12, 2000 (Sunday)
Pilgrims at the Guest House waiting for next Hajj activities

While waiting for next Hajj activities we pilgrims at the Guesthouse did a variety of things. Some were reading the Qur'an though most of us concentrated on those Hajj literatures given to us at the ground floor reception area.


Other pilgrims were having coffee at the lobby and conversing with fellow-pilgrims from other countries. There were also pilgrims who walked out of the guesthouse to shop for souvenirs or simply have some sightseeing. In the afternoon, Ra Lam and I went to a nearby commercial center to look for Mecca posters. I ended up buying a Sajadah for my wife while Ra Lam bought one Sajadah for himself and one for a friend back home. On our way back to the guesthouse, we saw pilgrims at the highway walking towards the 2 pedestrian tunnels leading to Masjid Al-Haram .

At night, one of our companions told us that General Adiong, our group leader, wanted everyone’s presence at breakfast the next day.


7th of Zul-Hajj / March 13, 2000 (Monday)
Meeting at the Canteen


After the breakfast, a meeting was held during which General Adiong asked for suggestions from us on what, as a team, should we prepare for in connection with the various phases of the Hajj.

We knew while we were still in the Philippines that, as guests of the Prince we would be provided with a service vehicle as well as food but we had no idea as to what extent such accommodations would be extended to us. We heard that Hajj involves a lot of walking and we heard from one another as well as through reading about the places that we were going to, but we didn’t know exactly which areas would require walking and how long would each walking last. We even wondered on how we could prevent anyone of us from getting drifted away from the group during long walks with thousands of other pilgrims moving in the same direction, and, should such a problem happens, what should we do? The question also as to whether there was need for us to bring provisions such as water and snacks were raised. In short, we discussed possible scenarios in the hope that we would be ready for it just, in case.


When the General realized that we could not prepare adequately for something that we are not thoroughly familiar with, he took time to write a note indicating our concerns and personally brought it to the ground-floor office of brother Ibrahim, the Guest House in-charge. Coincidentally, brother Ibrahim, who I see to be always in a hurry, was in his office at that time. When, after acknowledging our Salam, brother Ibrahim felt that the note which the General was holding contained inquiries, he begged the latter to just convey the message verbally to him as he had enormous concerns at hand he just didn’t have the time to go over that note anymore. The good General heeded, after which our experienced host responded by telling us that our concerns have already been anticipated, in fact, he said, his office has been doing its best so that the pilgrims’ needs for the duration of the Hajj are attended accordingly.

8th of Zul-Hajj / March 14, 2000 (Tuesday)

Pilgrims left for Mina


Early in the morning today, we pilgrims at the guesthouse were told to pack some of our things and the mattresses we were using at the guesthouse and prepare to leave for Mina. When the physical count was made in the bus, we found out that one of us, brother Dimabildo, was not around. We searched the area for nearly an hour but we didn't find him.


At around 11:45 the bus moved to its destination without brother Dimabildo! With us in the bus were pilgrims from Syria. As the bus moved along the highway which, sometimes passes in between rocky mountains, we occasionally passed by pilgrims in smaller separate groups walking along highways with their belongings (thermos included) with them. What a moving experience it is to see worshippers in sandals travelling in those isolated highways at high noon.

At about 12:30 in the afternoon we arrived in Mina where we saw an almost endless row of tents spread over a wide open field lying flat south of Mt. Al Quwais. These tents are divided into blocks enclosed with iron fences. Our guides led us to our tent that was next to that of the Syrians. To our amazement, our tent, like those of the thousands of other tents outside are carpeted and air-conditioned! For every block of tents, a row of bathrooms / toilets exclusively for men and another one for women as well as wudhu or wash areas were adequately available. There’s also a tent in each block designated as distribution point for food from which pilgrims received in carton boxes. Likewise, coffee, tea and snacks were available on tables outside the tents.


Purposely, we were brought to Mina to perform prayer / meditation, which was among the traditions of The Prophet, peace be upon him. The occasion also gave us the opportunity to converse with fellow-pilgrims from other countries and through that, we were pleased to learn that many of the pilgrims were not actually ‘traditional Muslims’ but ‘Muslim-converts’, so to speak. From them we learned that in their respective countries there’s an apparent increase in the number of mosques because more and more worshippers from other religions are joining Islam.


The Return of our ‘Missing Brother’


We were having our supper at the tent when suddenly, brother Dimabildo entered and excitedly told us what happened. He said – sounding victorious - that he discovered the short cut to the Masjid al Haram which he said to be just about half an hour walk from the GuestHouse. In fact, he said, one end of this tunnel is very near the guesthouse. Dimabildo was so happy to tell us that for having found this tunnel he was able to perform another Tawaf at the Kaaba! He added to say that when he returned to the guest house after that, we had left for Mina already and that when Ibrahim, the guest house in-charge saw him and heard his story, the latter felt so delighted that he offered to personally drive the car to ferry him to our tent.

Lecture inside the Tent

Shortly after dinner an Arab came to our tent to join us, and, squatting on the carpet we formed a circle. The fellow was a jolly one who spoke very fluent English. He told us that he works as teacher and has already been assigned to various Islamic institutions, the most recent one of which is in the United States. After introducing himself as Abdul-Aziz bin Hazan and knowing our names and a few things about ourselves, he explained to us many things about Hajj. The lecture was followed by questions and answers through which we learned plenty, not only about Hajj but other things related to Islam. When asked whether it’s true that the government of Saudi Arabia is giving free education, hospitalization and housing to its citizenry, Hazan nodded his head to confirm it. Having sensed that we wanted to hear more about the subject, Hazan added to say that, “Education in Arabia is Free - from Kindergarten to Ph.D.” Hazan also elaborated on the other social services that the Saudis are receiving from their government and as he went on I realized that no other race is as blessed as the Saudis. I therefore concluded that the Islamic Economic System which Prophet Mohammad (peace be upon him) established some 1400 years ago, is indeed superior over all other economic systems in the world today.


9th of Zul-Hajj / March 15, 2000 (Wednesday)
Departure from Mina to Arafat


At around 7:30 in the morning today, we boarded our bus that left Mina for Arafat.

At around 8:00 we arrived in Arafat and occupied a much wider tent which accommodated over a hundred pilgrims and with adequate air-conditioning system inside.

At 8:25 someone announced that this day being holy, pilgrims were advised not to leave their places or intend to go to Mt. Arafat because the Prophet himself did not do it. We were advised not to sleep nor to spend our time chatting but to meditate, ask forgiveness from Allah and pray for our loves ones.

Departure from Arafat to Muzdalifa

At around 5:00 in the afternoon pilgrims boarded their buses and waited there till shortly before Maghrib. Our destination: Muzdalifa

Shortly afterwards the bus moved. While speeding towards Muzdalifa, we saw on the opposite lane, a long line of empty buses (hundreds of them I guess) on stand-by ‘bumper-to-bumper’, each waiting for its turn to move towards Arafat to pick up pilgrims and ferry them to Muzdalifa.

As soon as we reached Muzdalifa, we laid down our mats and mattresses on the road. We had barely done that when everybody scrambled to position for the shortened prayers combining Maghrib and Isha. Since not everyone had a mat or mattress to stand on and or perform sujud, some had to share with those who had, although there were those who had to contend with whatever they had with them such as blankets, towels, and even cartoons they found in their surroundings.



Standing with other pilgrims in a row, I didn’t know how far the Imam was ahead of us for I couldn’t hear even a bit of his voice. What I could only hear then was the voice of one who was some distance ahead of us saying, “Allahu Akbar!” which made those in front of us execute the next prescribed praying position, which we followed. The “Allahu Akbar!” was in turn repeated a number of times behind us.

After the prayer we were given food in cartoons and after our supper we collected pebbles right there and kept them for tomorrow’s ‘throwing of the Great Jumarat or Big Stone’. We all slept on that Muzdalifa road shortly afterwards.

10th of Zul-Hajj (Eid’l Adha) / March 16, 2000 (Thursday)
March to the Great Jumarat (or the Big Stone)

After Fajr prayer and breakfast on the road, we were ferried back to the guesthouse.

At about 9:00 in the morning we went down the guesthouse and began our march towards the Great Jumarat. That’s about an hour brisk-walk. Our starting point was the edge of the bridge coming from the end of one of those 2 nearby tunnels leading to Masjid Al-Haram.

Among the things that amazed me as we marched is the vastness of the 3 parallel roads leading to the Jumarat. The road at the middle, which is the narrowest, is about 50 feet wide while the roads on our right and left are about 3 times wider. Whereas the wider roads are exposed to the sun, galvanized roofing supported by pillars standing about 40 feet high shelters the middle road. The road at the middle has 2 lanes; whereas the right lane was being used by the pilgrims marching to the Jumarat, the other lane was being used by those going to Masjid Al-Haram – passing through the pedestrian tunnels. Pilgrims who could no longer penetrate the sheltered road due to immense crowd nevertheless marched on the outer roads.

Spectacles in the March

Whereas many pilgrims marched alone, the others were in pairs like husbands and wives as well as groups such as families. There were also larger groups consisting for example, of a row of 8 pilgrims walking arm-in-arm with about 5 to 30 other rows marching behind them. It was common to see miniature flags of nations, banners and other articles - from sticks to bottles to umbrellas, etc., - raised above head levels as convenient identifying reference of groups wanting to keep their flocks intact during the entire march. The march was, as I observed, so solemn an exercise that none of the multitudes of pilgrims spoke unless necessary; the predominating sound around us then, was the rumble of marchers’ sandals. Along the sidewalks of both lanes of the middle road were vendors selling all sorts of souvenir items laid on mats, as well as pilgrims either laying asleep on their mattresses or simply resting. There were also ice-cold water fountains alongside the pillars.

After about a quarter of an hour since we began our march and between excitement and meditation, I saw something that moved me: a man carrying a 3-year-old girl on his shoulder, his left hand lifted above his head holding the girl to keep her from falling; meanwhile, the man’s right arm was clutching a curled mattress tucked under his right armpit, and, beneath the mattress was the man’s hand gripping the loops of a plastic bag of provisions, I suppose. The man’s wife on the other hand, was following about 10 feet behind him dragging the 2 kids beside her. I felt uneasy looking at the man in such a preoccupied, awkward or strenuous position considering the distance that he has traveled and the distance that he has yet to complete before he could finally let go of his loads! What an incredible act of worship, Allahu Akbar! Allahu Akbar! I said to myself. I felt relieved, only after seeing a fellow-pilgrim offering to carry the mattress for him.

Shortly afterwards, we saw the marchers make a right turn and from that point the middle road was not sheltered anymore. The open space allowed us to see what looked like a sea of humanity moving shoulder to shoulder. We still had a long walk before we finally reached the area of the Jumarat. As we went on approaching the area, we noticed that unlike the outer roads which were level all the way straight ahead, the middle road was gradually going up an incline appearing like a bridge through which we saw pilgrims moving downwards to the direction head-on to ours. Actually this is the Jumarat Bridge, the middle of which the 3 Jumarats stand hundreds of yards apart, with the largest Jumarat being the nearest to the foot of the bridge in front of us. As we get close that bridge, we were signaled not to proceed ascending to that bridge but to make a turn to either of the outer roads until we get to the base of the big Jumarat under the bridge.

The Jumarat

As instructed, we went on through the right outer road till we reached the Great or Big Jumarat. This we found out at last is a 150-foot high rectangular concrete post planted on the ground and standing high with its sharpened top extending beyond the hole at the bridge above us. The thickness of the Jumarat itself is about 3 feet. A cone-shaped waist-high concrete circular fence (with the wider diameter at the top having an approximate radius of about 15 feet) serves as reservoir of the pebbles thrown at the Jumarat. This, the Jumarat as we found out later, was built to symbolize the Devil.

We stoned the Jumarat with 7 pebbles (one pebble per throw) as a way of humiliating Satan and pleasing our Lord. Today’s ‘throwing’ was the first of the required 3-consecutive-day throwing rituals. (Tomorrow, the 2nd day, we will be throwing pebbles at 3 Jumarats (7 pebbles per Jumarat) with the following sequence: the Small Jumarat, then the Medium Jumarat, and then the Great Jumarat. The procedure for 2nd day will be repeated on the 3rd day).

On my way back to the guesthouse I saw brothers Hamid and Abdurrahim. As the three of us went on walking, we saw, on different areas of the populated road, pilgrims undergoing head shaving. We also saw pilgrims crowding before booths to buy sheep for slaughter as their sacrifice on this special occasion known as Eid'l Adha, which commemorated the slaughter by Prophet Abraham of a ram instead of his son Ishmael on that day Allah tested his faith. Sheeps slaughtered as sacrifice on Eid’l Adha is being distributed among the poor in the community. The shaving of head as well as the slaughter of sheep later became among the traditions of Prophet Mohammad, peace be upon him, as integral parts of the Hajj.

As soon as we arrived at the guesthouse we found our companions alternately shaving each other.

At around 4:00 in the afternoon, we boarded our bus that took us to Mina. We arrived in the place about 5:00 in the afternoon.

11th of Zul-Hajj / March 17, 2000 (Friday)
March to and stoning of the Small Jumarat; Medium Jumarat then, Great Jumarat

This is the 2nd of the 3 ‘stoning’ days. Our group today consisted of the following: General Cuadra, General Piad, Butch Baliao, the Eugenio couple, Abdurrahim Rueca, Ra Lam and myself. Unlike yesterday, the stoning sequence today is as follows: The Smallest Jumarat first, followed by the Medium Jumarat and then the Great or Big Jumarat, 7 pebbles each.

In going to the Smallest Jumarat we did the same march but this time we went farther ahead than yesterday choosing the left outer road till we made a right turn to ascend to the incline of the opposite end of the bridge which was the prescribed way of going to the Small Jumarat.

Before we reach the foot of the bridge however, the crowd was so dense already that arriving pilgrims like us could not advance anymore. Then there was an announcement over the loudspeaker in language we couldn’t understand; then the announcement was made in another language and so on, till we heard English. It was actually an announcement telling pilgrims to stay put and discontinue marching for the bridge leading to the Jumarats was now filled with pilgrims. Instantly we feared that the bridge might collapse. The situation was like this for a few minutes until finally we were able to move on.

12th of Zul-Hajj / March 18, 2000 (Saturday)
March to and stoning of the Small Jumarat; Medium Jumarat then, Great Jumarat

This was the last of the 3 ‘stoning’ days. Same as yesterday, we stoned the smallest Jumarat, then the second Jumarat, then the third Jumarat - 7 stones each.
The three Jumarats above described symbolize the 3 occasions that the devil tempted Prophet Abraham and his family to disobey Allah. The family responded on each occasion by stoning the devil. The stoning of the Jumarats by worshippers during Hajj therefore, a reenactment of those events.
Our Farewell Tawaf

At about 8:30 in the evening, brother Ra lam, Ebrahim Du, the Eugenio couple and myself proceeded to Masjid Al-Haram to perform the prescribed Farewell Tawaf. We reach the Masjid past 9:00 pm because of heavy traffic. During Tawaf the slippers in the plastic bag that I tucked into my waist fell to the ground. I motioned to pick them up but Ra Lam blocked me for fear that in doing so I might lose my balance and fall on the ground and be crushed to death by pilgrims behind us moving at unstoppable momentum. After my last Tawaf I drank Zamzam water and, because I didn’t know then that it was not required anymore – I proceeded to perform the 7 Sa’y! I got out of the door of the Masjid without slippers. I looked around hoping to find a pair but I couldn’t, so I went to the Janitor nearby and conveyed to him my problem. The fellow looked around for a while till he saw the pair I needed – a pair abandoned by the owner maybe because of the broken strap on one side, Alhamdulillah! I went home alone, passing through the left side of the two tunnels behind the back of the King’s palace. After about half an hour I reach the other end of the tunnel. A few hundred yards away I made a left turn and finally I was back to the Guesthouse.

13th of Zul-Hajj / March 19, 2000 (Sunday)
Our Last Day in Mecca, our First in Madinah

This was our last day in Mecca. It was my last day to see those generous Bangladeshi attendants at the guesthouse that I had light moments with occasionally. Early morning today after Fajr, all pilgrims left the guesthouse.

Bus ride from Mecca to Madinah is a long one. I wish I had a map to tell me where I was from time to time but I had none. However, I remember having seen at least 2 mountains miles away at my left which were the only cone-shaped that I saw since we sat foot in Arabia.

At about noontime, the buses entered a locality and drove into what looked like a restaurant with a welcome streamer for pilgrims. I understood the message because it was in English. We were served lunch and, to my amusement, a bundle of roses each! We left shortly after taking our lunch and performing our Zuhur prayer. We reach Madinah by nightfall.

Our guides brought us to a hotel located just a building across the Prophet’s Mosque. Going to the Prophet’s Mosque is as uplifting as going to Masjid Al-Haram. The marble flooring at the grounds fronting the Masjid is equally shiny and the towering minarets as imposing as those in Masjid Al-Haram with those pointed tips & crescents made of gold.

Performing Prayer at Rawdah & Visiting the Graves of the Prophet & his 2 companions

With brothers Eugenio and Dimabildo, I performed Sunnah Prayer (2 rakah) at Rawdah, a spot in the Masjid measuring approximately 50 square feet. This spot is said to be a part of the Garden of Paradise.

At the rear portion of Rawdah is a small open cubicle measuring approximately 10 square feet with about 6 marble pillars approximately 7 feet high. This structure is said to be the house of the Prophet. It used to be outside of the Masjid. After the Prophet’s death, an extension of the Masjid was constructed so that the house with walls already removed is now enclosed in the extended portion.

In front of the Rawdah is a platform of some kind with about 14 ladder steps. On top of this platform which I would know later as Minber in Arabic, is a microphone. That, is where the prophet used to make Khutbah or sermon (without microphone, of course).

After our Sunnah Prayer at Rawdah, the 3 of us proceeded to the cubicle at the left of Rawdah. Beside this cubicle with steel gate are 2 other cubicles also with steel gates. The first cubicle houses the Prophet’s tomb, while the two other cubicles were for the tombs of his 2 companions: Abubakar and Omar. As soon as we were in front of the Prophet’s tomb we quietly offered our salutations or greetings. After that, the three of us walked out of the rear door of the Masjid. Then, when we were about a hundred yards away we looked around and we saw the blue-colored dome on top of the Masjid, which actually indicates the location of the Prophet’s tomb.

14th of Zul-Hajj / March 20, 2000 (Monday)
Shopping around Madinah commercial complex

We had no other place to go or thing to do but perform or regular prayers at the Masjid. At night my companions and I would go out for some sightseeing. At the small store in front of the Masjid I bought a tape ‘Journey to Hajj’. I went farther till I reached the commercial district where I was able to buy a few Islamic literatures and some small presents for my love ones.

15th of Zul-Hajj / March 21, 2000 (Tuesday)
Leaving Madinah for Jeddah

Today we left Madinah for Jeddah. We reach destination late in the afternoon and we checked in at the Ambassador Suite at Quraish Corner, Madinah Road. We will stay here while waiting for available flight to Manila.

16th day of Zul-Hajj / March 22, 2000 (Wednesday
No activity today – awaiting availability of flight to Manila

17th day of Zul-Hajj / March 23, 2000 (Thursday
No activity today – awaiting availability of flight to Manila

18th of Zul-Hajj / March 24, 2000 (Friday)
Jumaat Prayer at the Lobby of Ambassador Suite and visit to us by Filipinos at Jeddah Islamic Centers

There was no Masjid near Ambassador Suite so we performed our Jumaat Prayer at the lobby immediately outside our room.

At night shortly after supper, Filipinos working in different Islamic centers in Jeddah visited us. They were about 15 and mostly converts-to-Islam. They told us that they agreed among themselves to serve us while we are in Jeddah. They felt sad to know that we were already scheduled to depart for Manila the following day.


19th of Zul-Hajj / March 25, 2000 (Saturday)

Return Flight to Manila


Early in the afternoon today we were ferried from our hotel to the airport for our flight home. It was a bit emotional parting of ways between some of our companions and fellow-pilgrims from Britain.

20th of Zul-Hajj / March 26, 2000 (Sunday)

Arrival in Manila

We arrived in Manila late in the afternoon and everyone was in a hurry to reach home.

My house happens to be just near the airport so I invited Ra Lam to come with me and share some coffee for a while. While on our way, I was imagining my kids Jameela (2 years old) and Abdul-Majid (1 year old) jumping happilly when they see me. When my wife opened the door however, the kids just stared at me and my guest; they probably wondered where I had been for quite a long time and why was my head shaven.


End
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